PSU Help!!! UGH

[lindaetterlee]

Ok for all you amazing people who tuned in for my buying a monitor drama, here is my latest upgrade. PSU. This ordinarily might not be trouble. BUT of course for stupid ole me It is. I mainly use this system for the sims ONLY.


Here is a run down of my system (custom).

Win xp pro. - ugh not upgrading anytime soon
160 gb hdd- not upgrading. Don't use all of this.
Ati x1950 AGP video- just got 6 months ago going to keep as long as I have a AGP MB.

Epox 8hda5+ Mother board- All MB can hold-not upgrading as MB will likely be extinct for SIMS 3 and I will be building another
2 gb ram - All MB can hold-not upgrading as MB will likely be extinct for SIMS 3 and I will be building another system

One DVD/CD burner- that has never worked right. (Looking at upgrading this as well, so any input is appreciated.)

For all of this I am using a no name brand (turbolink) switching power supply unit 420watt atx psu.

I would like to upgrade the PSU but shit I have no docs that tell me what to get. All I have been able to find in my MB manual is that it needs to be min of "+5VSB current of (>=) 2A."

I am likely going to purchase from new egg.

[KittKitt]

Just out of curiosity, why are you looking to upgrade the PSU at this point?

Also, what I would recommend depends on what your priorities are.  Most PSUs are fairly standardized these days, at least in terms of which one will work on which boards, but that's not to say that one is the same as another.  IMHO, true voltages and accurate watt rating are the #1 factor when I buy a PSU, because these are the factors that can actually fry (or fail to properly power) the components in your system.

Aside from that though, everyone has varied opinions on what's "best".  Some want the most quiet PSU they can get, some want pretty lights, some want removable plugs to reduce case clutter and increase air flow.  Speaking of air flow, some people insist on multiple fans in a PSU, though it tends to be far more useful and important to simply be sure that whatever fan(s) it does have match the case your computer is in.  I've actually seen situations where people installed a top-fan model in a case where the top of the PSU mount was solid aluminum, and was obviously designed for a single, rear-fan PSU.

In terms of brand, I usually run with Antec.  I've also had fairly good luck with Thermaltake, and Cooler Master, though their voltages haven't tested out to be quite as true in my experience.

As for wattage, if I remember correctly that video card recommends a 550 watt model.  Typically, you don't really need that much to get the system to run, but it's my policy to never go below, and usually go 50 or more above the highest component recommendation (so a 550 or 600 in this case).  I figure, if you're going to bother putting in a decent PSU, then why quibble over the few bucks you'll save by dropping down the wattage?  Put one in that'll do the job with room to spare, and you won't ever worry about a component not working up to expectations or burning out on you due to insufficient power.  Of course, as mentioned above, making sure the thing puts out proper voltages is also important here, since you can shove all the watts you want into a system, but they're not going to do you any good if your +3.3v@20A is actually putting out +4v@21A or your +5v@20A is really only delivering +3.8v@15.

It's not crucial you actually understand the electronic "technobabble" here, so much as you get the idea that correct numbers for output are at least as, if not more important than just how many watts you've got.  For this reason, I tend to avoid the off-brand ones.  Saving a few bucks isn't sufficient motivation to build your system with a crappy PSU. 

-Kitt

[lindaetterlee]

Ahh reason for upgrading. Some choppiness with video card. Wanted to upgrade to litescribe dvd-rw so I figured what the heck.

[Argon]

I've got a 500 watt in my desktop, but as rule of thumb, count up the parts in your pc that need power plugs (4 wires) and add 2 or 3. You should aim to get a power supply that has that number of plugs, you really don't want to use those splitter cables if you can avoid it (you don't use more power if you have empty plugs though, which is a good idea).

Having a psu with detachable cables is also a good idea because it gives you a lot more freedom. Since they detach you can always buy new cables if your new motherboard needs a new type of connector.

[B]

I posted this elsewhere regarding PSU selection:

What would you recommend as important facts of a new supply?

An important spec most folks overlook is the 12V amperage.  I've seen 800W PSUs that can't run an 8800GTX because they only provide 24A on the dual 12V rails.  Other considerations:

• P1 Connector - ATX is pretty standard, but you need to make sure it's got a standard mapping.
• Modular or not - If you have a Micro case, modular supplies can ease cable management.  If your case is at least a mid tower, avoid modular.
• Efficiency - Although not everyone thinks it's important, I like to get at least 80%, just cause it saves money.
• Size - Will it fit your case?
• Life expectancy - You want at least 80,000 hours.  If you get a good supply with 10K+, it can always be transplanted to a new machine down the road.
• SATA vs Molex connectors - Most good supplies come with a few of each, but you'll want check just to be safe.

I may have missed something, but this should be a good start. 

So those are the "stats" you'll want to look at closely when shopping on NewEgg.  If you simply want a couple of selections, post your system specs (Motherboard model is especially important, although if you buy from an OEM like Dell the computer model will suffice) and someone will be able to point you in the right direction.

[J. M. Pescado]

Stupid B, why have you STILL not taken your turn yet? Do I have to get forceful to MAKE you take your turn?

[B]

Stupid B, why have you STILL not taken your turn yet? Do I have to get forceful to MAKE you take your turn?

Pescado, I took my turn already.

[BattyCoda]

You might also want to check out the ars technica web site. They do recommendations for building
your own PC and review all the parts in detail.

Gaming systems recommendations here:
http://arstechnica.com/guides/buyer/guide-200707.ars

[lindaetterlee]

So those are the "stats" you'll want to look at closely when shopping on NewEgg.  If you simply want a couple of selections, post your system specs (Motherboard model is especially important, although if you buy from an OEM like Dell the computer model will suffice) and someone will be able to point you in the right direction.

B   I did post most of the specs in my original message, What others do you need?

[B]

B   I did post most of the specs in my original message, What others do you need?

Yeah, I just noticed.  The only other thing that would be helpful is your case.

[KatEnigma]

Why do you think that the video choppiness is the fault of your PSU?

Also, with PSU's, well and anything that heavy, I've found that NewEgg isn't usually the best place to buy them, as the shipping charges can kill you, unless they are running some kind of sale. I bought mine locally at Microcenter- same price as Newegg, but no shipping. Of course, I'm in California, so I pay tax either way, that might make it better for you.

[lindaetterlee]

No tax in Louisiana.

But we are on an Army base in the middle of nowhere.

I also like ordering from outpost.com (fry's) Again no tax.


My case is a full size. "gamer" case. has all the bells and whistles when it comes to lights and fans. No water cooling system though. Still iffy about that.

Reason for thinking PSu has to do with graphics: With my older CRAPPIER card it didn't do this. Also when I unplug my cd drive the graphics are no longer choppy. So I figured it was PSU related. As in not enough power to make it perform at full speed.

[lindaetterlee]

Ok another stupid question?



These are the "types" of PSUs listed at newegg.  I know my system is something with ATX but which of them is it? How do I find out?  Does it matter???


Type
ATX (3)
ATX / BTX (2)
ATX12V (15)
ATX12V / EPS12V (32)
EPS12V (4)

[J. M. Pescado]

A 420 should be able to adequately power your existing system unless it's defective somehow. If the problem is that it's becoming choppy which goes away when you unplug the CD drive, consider that the problem might, in fact, be your CD drive. If your CD drive is doing something which causes it to hang your system briefly anytime is it prodded, this would cause your choppiness, and disconnecting it is why the problem stops. Based on this description, I have no reason to believe the power supply is at fault here: Inadequate power supplies don't cause the system to slow down, they just cause it to spontaneously die.

[B]

These are the "types" of PSUs listed at newegg.  I know my system is something with ATX but which of them is it? How do I find out?  Does it matter???

You need ATX12V. 

If you are willing to spend the money, PC P&C makes some of the best Power Supplies available.  For your needs, the 470 Silencer would be adequate.

Like everyone else is saying, the PSU might not be your problem at this point.  However, if your intent on upgrading, make sure you buy from a reputable company such as PC Power & Cooling, FSP, or Silverstone (to name a few)

[lindaetterlee]

A 420 should be able to adequately power your existing system unless it's defective somehow. If the problem is that it's becoming choppy which goes away when you unplug the CD drive, consider that the problem might, in fact, be your CD drive. If your CD drive is doing something which causes it to hang your system briefly anytime is it prodded, this would cause your choppiness, and disconnecting it is why the problem stops. Based on this description, I have no reason to believe the power supply is at fault here: Inadequate power supplies don't cause the system to slow down, they just cause it to spontaneously die.

I don't use CDs for my games so the damn drive is usually disabled either in system or literally.